Pitti Uomo 87 – Style, Sartorialism and Surgery

It was extremely good timing for me that Pitti Uomo 87 was on while I was recovering from sinus surgery as being bedridden with nothing but my Mac and Instagram feed to keep me entertained, meant that I could follow the show like a fat kid watching a cake bake.

Arguably the biggest peacock festival in the men’s fashion industry, Pitti allows the who’s who of the International menswear industry as well as those who are just beginning their careers in the fashion world, or even those who just love style and to hang out with like-minded guys. The show curates designers from all corners of the globe, including European powerhouses such as Saint Laurent and Lanvin, classic British icons like Richard James and Hardy Amies, and  of course countless Italian brands including the sportswear influenced brand Eidos Napoli and the peacock’s clothier of choice Rubinacci.

Where the peacocks flock.
Where the peacocks flock.

The label ‘peacock’ has negative connotations, particularly in Australia, bringing to mind for many a vision of a pretentious, preening narcissist. I tend to think of it more as referring to am individual who is interested in intelligent combinations of colour, fit, texture and in some cases application and then brave enough to experiment on themselves. They are men who, when successful, should be commended for their sartorial innovations.

Here are some of my personal favourite people/looks/garb/anything from throughout the festival;

1. Christian Kimber

Christian Kimber Pitti 87
Christian Kimber

Where would this list be without CK? A British designer living in Melbourne, Kimber is a testament to the notion of individual style not being about the latest fashion and fads, but about the individual. His relaxed degage appearance is the antithesis of the pedantic prude and a reminder that being comfortable with what you wear means being comfortable with who you are.

2. Roberto Mararo

Roberto Mararo
Roberto Mararo

When one looks to define Italian style, Mararo is your man. Everything is done with flair, vibrancy and a lot of personality. Mararo stands out from this community of urban, metropolitan men with his dynamic eclecticism: being able to switch from understated sartorial elegance to full blown peacock with real Italian sprezzatura.

3. Saman Amel

Saman Amel Pitti Uomo 87
Saman Amel

Co founder of Atelier Samanamel, a high quality Swedish menswear label that places the emphasis on the process and inputs involved in production. Amel’s Scandivanian mentality is definitely reflected in his look. Neutral colour palettes lend a timelessness to his look, while also creating a space for modern pieces that become a focal point for many of his outfits.

 

(photos via. Tommy Ton, Schott Schumann, Finafest)