Those moments when you pull the darnest things out of your pockets- it certainly makes you wonder if Narnia decided to up and move out of the wardrobe and into your pocket.
I want you to reach into your pocket. Do you feel it? I meant your breast pocket!
Just like your other half you don’t have to carry around pocket squares everywhere. However when casual Friday or the races come around they’re considered appropriate. There are many ways to fold a pocket square with the most common folds being the straight, puff and flare. These folds correspond to an ascending level of casualness and can be used respectively in a formal setting, a more casual one or if you want to get slapped in a night club.
The straight fold otherwise known as the “TV” or square fold is the most formal of all the folds. It caught wind during the 1950s when American celebrities adopted the style including President Harry Truman, a former haberdasher. It’s no surprise that its comeback was in sync with the popular television series Mad Men. The straight fold, with its visual minimalism, creates a clean aesthetic which has also become a signature of Hugo Boss’s. The fold’s appearance is both staid and stoic, and being the most conservative of folds communicates rectitude and character.
The puff fold, allegedly invented by Fred Astaire, is considered to be a casual fold. The fold is versatile and can be incorporated in almost any context. The lightness attributed to its cloud like appearance communicates its playful spirit and can add visual interest and elan to a conservative outfit while also harmonising well with more casual dress.
The flare fold, as its name suggests, is full of personality and attitude. A contemporary fold, preferred by the likes of gents at Pitti Uomo, it is considered outrageous, lively and peacockey.
It’s not surprising that one of the key appeals of the flare fold is its appearance of indifference. However it’s ironic that the majority of those individuals who wear it are dandies trying to subdue their flaming “dandiness”. Some may say it’s for the man whose words speaks louder than his actions.
Places to get your next pocket square
There are hundreds of pocket square options out there depending on what you are after. Unfortunately I’ll only list a few because I can’t count to a hundred. Rubinacci may be obscure to those in Sydney, but to the Italians the Rubinacci family are tailoring heroes with baroque design and prints. Closer to home, brands such as Viola Milano, Brooks Brothers, MJ Bale and Herringbone offer a plethora of interesting and versatile designs. This ones my personal favourite, Kent Wang’s idiosyncratic and postmodern aesthetic is the perfect blend of kitsch and cool (shout out to all the weirdos).