Suit Details You Should Be Noticing

Details make for perfection but perfection is no detail. 

The Jacket

If the jacket collar is the right height then only half an inch of the shirt should protrude from the back. This ensures maximum comfort and aesthetic appeal. There should also be no pulling or bunching up under the collar which is a sign that the collar is pushed up too high.

 

Screen-Shot-2014-06-29-at-9.39.26-pm
Jared Acquaro of A Poor Man’s Millions demonstrated the perfect jacket collar height.

 

The collars of a jacket should lie flat against the collar of your shirt – not stand away from them.  Collars that stand away produce a “collar gap”. This makes the jacket look too large. This is more likely occur with more heavily structured and hard shouldered jackets in ready to wear jackets due to the way the jacket rests across the back blades.

 

collargap
Collar gaps create the impression that the jacket is a size too large.

 

Ideally, there should be no bunching or pulling when the jacket is seen from the rear; there should be sufficient fullness running down the blades of the shoulder and back in order to permit a wide range of movement. Jackets however are not designed to provide a full range of movement. Therefore avoid assuming unusual positions that pull the seams and risk damaging the jacket.

 

Langa-bespoke-suit-linen-back
A jacket should have sufficient fullness in the back to provide comfort and a wide range of movement.

 

Jacket sleeves should fall vertically from the shoulder or hint at the contours of the arm. But they should never divot inwardly. Divoting is an obvious indicator that the jacket’s shoulders are too large.  Though the shoulder can be “shaved” this is an expensive and difficult alteration.

 

tumblr_mcgmn3zsO11rf1jvro1_1280
Jacket sleeves should hang vertically from the shoulder or hint at the contours of the arm.

 

Lapels should appear to roll towards the chest lying flat and not buckle.  Buckling, often occurs because the jacket is too tight across the chest and distorts its shape.

In the event that a jacket is too tight or too loose it can normally be taken in or let out an inch either side, through the back and/or side seams, without any significant compromises to its shape.

Trousers

Personal preference and context will dictate the length of one’s trousers.

The most conservative, approach is to ensure that the trousers are long to cover and produce a slight break on top of the shoe. The break prevents socks from being revealed when walking while also adding visual heft. There are dandies with trousers cut so fastidiously that they have breaks that are barely discernible.

 

tumblr_n42n45i2511rjnzx2o4_500
The “dandy” break trouser.

 

Today most guys prefer a more contemporary and casual approach: the trousers are cut shorter such that they just hover over the shoe and reveal a sliver of sock. The boldest cut their trouser legs above the shoe such that their socks are always visible.

 

casual
Yasuto Kamoshita, Creative Director of United Arrows prefers breakless trousers, exhibiting a mix of American and Italian sensibilities.

 

(photos via. trashness, Schott Schumann, voxtsatoria,unitedarrows, oscarhunt, permanentstyle)

 

Stay Informed

Join our newsletter to keep up to date with the best menswear in Australia, and receive exclusive subscriber only content.