How to wear more than just solids.

The endless variety of patterns which exist and the infinite amount of combinations that are possible make it difficult to identify why a certain combination of patterns is successful and why another is a failure.

Luckily the task is simplified by understanding that patterns should be coordinated in such a way that they appear harmonious together. Failure to do results in the eye lingering excessively on the individual elements of the cynosure which distracts it from the expressiveness of the face.

How to coordinate patterns

There are two ways to coordinate patterns:

a) Coordinate like patterns by keeping the scales different

b) Coordinate different patterns by keeping the scales similar

Coordinate like patterns by keeping the scales different

Coordinate like patterns by keeping the scales different. This gives the cynosure harmony by ensuring that each element is clearly defined. Failure to do so confuses the eye as it makes it difficult to differentiate the individual elements of the cynosure from one another. This forces the eye to linger excessively on the cynosure and distracts it from the expressiveness of the face.

Coordinate different patterns by keeping the scales similar

Coordinate different patterns by keeping the scales similar. This has the effect of making the patterns in the cynosure appear harmoniously coordinated as opposed to competing with each other.  If the scales are too different there is the risk of having “too much going on” which can lead to one pattern visually overpowering another and can lead to the eye being distracted from the expressiveness of the face.

Three patterns

a)Three patterns of the same design

Coordinate these by keeping the scales different. Beware however that coordinating 3 different stripes can appear affected.

b)Three patterns of different designs

Coordinate these by keeping the scales similar.

c) Two patterns of the same design and one odd pattern

In the case of two patterns of the same design and one odd pattern identify which of the like patterns is the most visually prominent; the odd pattern should adopt a similar scale. This will balance out the larger pattern and produce a harmonious appearance.

4 or more patterns

Coordinating 4 or more patterns is problematic for two reasons:

a) Too many patterns in the cynosure can be visually overwhelming

b) There is the risk of appearing too contrived which may communicate that the dresser cares too much about what he wears (to be fair this is probably true most of the time).

Though the first can be resolved by mastering the principles of coordinating patterns (at this level the best guide is refined intuition) the second requires that the wearer possesses the right sartorial attitude to “pull off” something this ambitious: a certain indifference regarding one’s appearance and a lack of self consciousness. Examples of those who have achieved this include the Duke of Windsor, Luca Rubinacci and Wale Ojedile to name a few.

 

 

Additional Notes

Micropatterns (patterns of an extremely small scale) cannot be matched with other micropatterns. This is because micropatterns are difficult to distinguish from one another when matched together meaning that such combinations are visually confusing. Therefore micropatterns must always be coordinated with patterns of a larger scale.

The Prince of Wales check belongs to a special class called mixed scale patterns. This is because the Prince of Wales check is actually a pattern which is composed of three different patterns in three different scales: micropatterned houndstooth, small checks  and large checks. They can therefore be coordinated with nearly every pattern in any scale. Some paisley patterns also belong in this class.

 

(photos via. Scott Schumann,  Drakes of London, Brokeandbespoke, Italianindustrialist, Wale Oyejide)