The Key Looks and Trends from London Fashion Week Men’s S/S 19.
The question on everybody’s minds this week, is whether London Fashion Week’s Men’s will survive through to next year. The noticeably solvent schedule, from the four days of shows now down to three, has fashion editors and buyers concerned.
Several heavyweights have departed the calendar like Burberry and JW Anderson. Burberry, who left the circuit three seasons ago decided to showcase their men’s collection alongside the London Women’s fashion week. Rising stars like Craig Green opted for Pitti Uomo, which could eventually lead to a place on the Paris Fashion week’s calendar.
London, unlike New York, has fostered a fashion environment that celebrates and explores the conceptual and the avant-garde. It’s evident on the streets this season where many have come out with greater diversity in their styles and fits. Also, home of Savile Row, it’s clear that Londoners have come through in full force this season with many British street style attendees paying homage to their tailoring heritage.
Below are a few key trends from the recent London Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 19.
Oversized (Hobo Chic)
This season, oversized dressing is all the rage. Who said plain is beautiful? Rules are meant to be broken and disregarding proportions are key. Mismatching clothing such as pairing a windbreaker with baggy jeans can throw-off the discerning eye. However, the trick here is to add bulk to the upper half with a loose fitted hoodie for example to balance the overall silhouette. Incorporating slimming shades of blue and accessories like a choker and cap, also help elongate the look.
Check out Balenciaga and Vetements (both overseen by “he’s-so-hot-right-now” designer Demna Gvasalia) for purposefully disproportioned clothes.
Logomania
Sometimes monograms can be a good thing. However, the issue is, you can’t wear too many at same time. Above, the jeans by Louis Vuitton is one of my favourites. The striped mandarin collared shirt softens the busyness of the jeans and the black high-top sneakers complete the look by adding visual weight to the bottom half of the silhouette. The lack of accessories is great too, and allows the individual items to stand out.
Graphic shirts / Bold Prints
London street style stars really know how to pull off graphic tees. Forget about floral for spring, vintage tees can dress up or down any outfit. Pair graphic tees with solid coloured pants allow the graphic to stand out. Derek Guy at Die Workwear recently put together a great list.
Bumbags
This season, we’re witness a lot of bumbags straddled around men roaming outside the fashion shows (even in Australia). They’re a great and useful accessory that adds an urban edge to your outfit, and reflect the resurgence of 90s nostalgia (or ironic fashion). Pair one with tailored trousers and a clean-cut shirt like the outfit below to offset the heaviness of the bag (and to avoid being mistaken for a drug dealer). Ugly is big business.
Tailoring
What is London Fashion Week without tailoring? Home to Savile Row, it’s great to see men on the streets incorporating tailoring in various ways. In traditional English fashion, there were less risks taken this season especially when it came to colours. Many opted for a neutral or dark palette, which is quintessentially British. If you wanted more vibrancy, perhaps, keep your eyes on the upcoming fashion week at Pitti Uomo.
Workwear combinations were also everywhere. A possible reaction to the opulence of tailoring and the transience of streetwear maybe. To pull of a fit like the guys below it’s really important to make sure the colours talk to one another. Otherwise pair workwear with tailored trousers and a pair of white sneakers for a cosmopolitan look that’s captures the cultural mix of London.
[Cover photo by Eva Al Desnudo via Highsnobiety]